The House Year

Plumbing

Slow-drain care, without the chemicals

Annual · typically February

Why it matters

Almost every slow bathroom drain is hair and soap scum in the first six inches, and almost every kitchen clog is grease that got poured warm and set cold. Neither needs chemicals — and the chemical route actively makes things worse. Caustic cleaner that doesn't clear the clog just sits in the trap as a burn hazard for whoever opens the pipe next (often you, sometimes a plumber who will charge accordingly).

What skipping it costs

$150–$3,000

The real cost of slow drains is what people pour down them: a bottle of caustic cleaner on a standing clog turns a hair problem into a chemical burn hazard sitting in the trap, eats older metal pipes from the inside, and doubles the plumber's price when he has to work in it. Repeat chemical habits on aging lines end in pipe replacement — thousands, for what a zip tool handles free.

Two ways to get it done

Do it yourself

~30 min · difficulty 1 of 5

You'll need: Plastic zip tool (~$6), Cup plunger, Bucket, Rubber gloves, Enzyme drain treatment (optional, for maintenance only).

  1. Bathroom sinks and tubs: feed the zip tool down, twist, pull. What comes up is disgusting and extremely satisfying. Do every bathroom drain once a year whether or not it's slow — that's the whole maintenance program.
  2. Plunger technique for a stubborn one: block the overflow opening with a wet rag (no seal, no pressure), few inches of water in the basin, straight vertical strokes. Ten good pumps beats twenty sloppy ones.
  3. Kitchen: grease never goes down the sink, full stop — jar it, trash it. For a greasy slow drain, a kettle of hot (not boiling) water with a squirt of dish soap, then the plunger.
  4. Enzymes, honestly: monthly enzyme treatments are legitimate _maintenance_ — bacteria that slowly eat organic buildup. They will not open a clogged drain, whatever the label implies. Maintenance yes, rescue no.
  5. Pop-up stoppers lift out (or unscrew the pivot rod under the sink) — half of all "slow drains" are just a fouled stopper.

Hire it out

$150–$350National fair range — local labor moves this number.

A pro drain clearing runs $150–$350 per fixture and is the right call when the zip tool and plunger both lose, when more than one fixture slows at once (that's a branch or main line, not a fixture), or when the same drain clogs on repeat — recurring clogs have a cause worth finding.

Match the tool to the problem: hand snake for fixtures, machine auger for branches, hydro-jet and cameras for main lines with history. A tech who reaches for the biggest tool and the camera on a first-visit bathroom sink is billing the equipment, not solving the drain.

Ask the tech

  • Was it cleared with a hand snake or a machine, and how far in was the blockage?
  • Is this a one-fixture clog or is the branch line involved? What tells you which?
  • If you're recommending a camera, what specifically did you find that justifies it?

Red flags you're being upsold

  • Hydro-jetting pitched for a single slow bathroom sink — that's a $400 answer to a $6 hair clog.
  • A camera-inspection upsell on every visit. Cameras earn their fee on main lines and repeat clogs, not on a lav drain that's never acted up before.
  • 'All your drains are showing their age' followed by a whole-house descaling quote. Drains get diagnosed one at a time, with evidence.

Second opinion time: Any drain visit that ends in a four-figure quote.

The call

DIY the zip tool and the plunger — they clear ninety percent of clogs. The one hard rule: never pour chemical cleaner on a clog that isn't draining.

Your county's checklist, one email a month. What's due, what it should cost, and a heads-up when the weather changes the plan. No drip campaigns — we don't have the patience for them either.

This page is the national picture.

The app draws your house's actual year — your county's dates, your prices, and a heads-up when the weather moves the schedule.

Free to start · the whole year is $24 · no card required