Flush your water heater
Why it matters for your house
Every water heater tank slowly collects sediment — minerals that drop out of the water and settle on the bottom. You're on well water, so this happens roughly twice as fast as it does on city water. This task is not optional for your house. That sediment layer is the single biggest reason tanks die at year 8 instead of year 14.
Cost of neglect
$800–$1,800
Sediment builds a crust on the bottom of the tank. The burner overheats the steel through it, the tank fails years early, and you're buying a $1,800 replacement instead of doing a 45-minute chore.
Do it yourself
Garden hose, flathead screwdriver, work gloves.
- Kill the heat — "vacation" mode on gas, breaker off on electric.
- Hose on the drain valve, run it to a floor drain or outside.
- Drain until the water runs clear — usually 10 to 20 minutes.
…plus the three finishing steps, in the app.
Watch for: if the drain valve is plastic and won't open, don't force it — that's the moment this becomes a hire-out.
Hire it out
$120–$225
Fair range for a flush-and-inspect. The app tunes it to your county's labor costs.
Ask the tech:
- "Will you check the anode rod while you're in there, and what condition is it in?"
- "How much sediment came out? A photo is normal to ask for."
- "What's the manufacture date on this tank?"
Red flags you're being upsold
- They recommend replacing a tank under 8 years old without showing you a leak or a rusted fitting.
- A "flush" that takes under 10 minutes — that's a rinse, not a flush.
- They quote a whole-house water treatment system during a $150 service call.
Second opinion time: any replacement quote over $2,000, or any "it could burst any day" urgency on a tank that isn't leaking.
The GC's call
DIY this — it's genuinely a garden hose and a valve. Hire it only if the drain valve is stuck or plastic.